Our original plan was to take a one day break in Aktse, instead of continuing the Kungsleden on the direct way to Sitojaure. We planned to climb the mountain Skierffe in a day trip. The trail there is easy to walk and at the top, on the almost 700 meter high steep face of the Skierffe, there is an amazing view into the delta of the Rapaälv. At this end of the Rapadalen the river flows into the lake Laitaure. In 2012 I have been up there already and I will never forget how the low sun came around the corner at 10pm and bathed everything in a warm light!
Day trip onto the Skierffe mountain
In good weather it is definitely worth taking a day trip onto the Skierffe. The view down to lake Laitaure, the delta of the Rapaälv and the peaks of the Sarek at the end of the Rapadalen is unique!
Distance (one way): about 7,5 km
Ascent (way up): approx. 650 m
Descent (way up): approx. 50 m
Duration (return trip): about 6 hours
Warming-up the swedish way
Hard return to reality: when we wake up in the morning, clouds are hanging deep in between the surrounding peaks.The Skierffe already disappears in the cloud cover. The Skierffe already disappears in the cloud cover. Climbing up the Skierffe is not worth it today. Therefore, we decide to leave Aktse already today and continue on the Kungsleden to Sitojaure. For a moment we watch a group of elderly Swedes, who conscientiously do some warm-up exercises to prepare for the day. They too want to walk to Sitojaure today.
Visibility may be less than 20 meters
Then it is time to get going. Starting from Aktse we first climb the steep wall of the Njunjes. Halfway up, a billowing and impenetrable fog destroys Manuel’s last hopes of getting on the Skierffe. The visibility is less than 20 m in some places. Arriving at the top, we cross a high plateau for a short time and then descend again towards the landing stage Svijnne.
Theoretically, there would be a nice view from here
Probably there are great views on Kungsleden after the Aktse hut, at first back towards lake Laitaure and then towards Sitojaure, but we really don’t see anything. Sometimes even the next trail markings are hard to see and we are glad that the trail itself is clearly visible. Without a stop we walk through to the shelter at the lake.
Somewhere in between we meet the Swedish couple from the previous day again. We are asking whether they want to row themselves or take the motorboat across the lake.Their tendency is to take the motorboat, whereas we want to try it by ourselves this time.Their tendency is to take the motorboat, whereas we want to try it by ourselves this time. Presupposed there are two boats on the shore. And that’s how it eventually comes: when we arrive at the lakeside, beside the spacious shelter, a toilet house and two boats await us. So we are able to row.
Before we start rowing, we will have a little refreshment
Beforehand, however, we want to have a lunch break and for this we make ourselves comfortable in the hut. Unnoticed, the two Swedes catch up with us again. When they discover that we are not visible on the lake, they assume that we have already made it to the other shore. Encouraged by this, they try their luck with rowing. During our lunch break, however, the weather worsens: it starts to rain and a strong wind now blows across the lake.
A weather change drifts the Swedes in the rowing boat so far off that they have to call for help
From the boat landing stage we check the lake once more and discuss whether we want to risk it in this weather. While doing so we see that a motorboat with a rowing boat in tow is approaching us. It turns out that the two Swedes have been pushed out by the wind so far that they have called the motorboat from the lake for help. We get into the motorboat, even I don’t feel like rowing anymore under these circumstances. Anyway, Manuel had hoped from the beginning that there would only be one boat.
Boat passage Sitojaure
The section across the lake Sitojaure is 4 km long and can be crossed by rowing boat or motorboat. Lake Sitojaure is very flat and the route is marked for rowing. Attention, it is often very windy on the Sitojaure! The motorboat transfer is operated privately by Anna and Lars. On the way between Aktse and the landing stage there is a sign indicating mobile phone reception. From there the boat can be ordered. There is no reception at the pier Svijnne itself.
Costs: 300 SEK, children and dogs 150 SEK
More information at: swedischtouristassociation.com
Our skipper Anna is dressed in bright pink from head to toe, even her ear protection is glowing shrill. She explains that it often happens that boats drift off on the lake and she has to help hikers in trouble. According to her, the STF is even considering abolishing the rowing boats at this point and offering only motorboat trips instead.
The warm juice, which the cabin warden serves us on arrival, feels so incredibly good today
Arriving in Sitojaure we decide to spend the night in the hut! The warm juice that the friendly cabin keeper offers us is a blessing after the cold and wet crossing. The dog room here is amazingly large and we share it with an older woman and her Toller Retriever Caspar. She is surprised that I speak a little Swedish and she herself is a bit insecure in speaking English. However, with a mix of English and Swedish a pleasant conversation starts.Through the window of our hut we look at the light blue Gaskajávrre which is part of the Sitojaure reservoir, and seems to glow despite the rough weather.
STF Fjällstuga Sitojaure
Beautifully situated at lake Sitojaure is this small hut. The dog room is, as so often, also the winter room and very spacious with its own kitchen. You can observe birds all around Sitojaure, if you bring some time.
Payment: cash or credit card
More information at: swedishtouristassociation.com