After the dry night in the Tsielekjåkkstuga, we continue our trip on the Kungsleden towards Kvikkjokk in pouring rain. Our shoes are really soaking wet and one lace tears at my left hiking boot. Good that we have a longer cord of rope with us. This way the shoe is quickly ready for use again. The visibility is bad today, so we partly walk through thick fog. The forest down to Lake Sakkat stretches endlessly in this weather. Through the mud it is partly quite slippery. Therefore we have to concentrate a lot. At some point we finally reached the shore. In the comfortable hut we get out of the wet rain clothes and read the information about the boat crossing. By the way, with all the bad weather we completely forgot to take pictures today.
The crossing over lake Sakkat to Kvikkjokk is our highlight today
Crossing lake Sakkat
There are no rowing boats for the boat passage over lake Sakkat, as the current is too strong for rowing. There is a choice of two skippers for the crossing: Björn and Helena. You will find a telephone in the cabin at the lakeside, where you only have to press the “1” or the “2” to call them. Björn offered us a tour through the swamp and lake country in the delta east of Kvikkjokk for an additional 50 SEK. The delta is formed by sediment deposits from the confluence of the Tarraälven and Gamájåhkå rivers.
Cost (2018): 200 SEK, officially payment is cash only, we could also pay by credit card at Björn
The two boatmen can also be reached by telephone in advance:
Björn Sarstad: +46 70 2053 193
Helena Adolfsson: +46 73 8006 232
More information at: battrafikikvikkjokk.com
In the hut, which protects us from the continuing wet and cold weather, you will find a telephone with only two buttons: with one you can call Björn, with the other Helena. I don’t know what difference there is between the skippers, but we decide to call Björn. During the crossing he makes us the offer to do a tour through the swamp and lake area west of Kvikkjokk for 50 SEK extra. This is a delta formed by sedimentary deposits from the confluence of the Tarraälven and Gamájåhkå rivers. Initially, we are sceptical, as we can’t judge whether this offer is only meant to ease our holiday budget or really has additional value. It is still cold, but has stopped raining and so we decide to do the extra tour. Björn does not disappoint us!
Björn knows the delta very well. He takes his time and drives with us into several dead ends, turns off the engine and lets us enjoy the silence. Thereby he navigates virtuosic through very narrow or shallow passages. Again and again he stops within reach of the shore and picks plants, which he then shows us. He explains details about them – in English if requested – and lets us participate in his knowledge about the flora and fauna. Some plants, he explains, are even edible and he shows us which parts we can eat. We try curiously, but some of the other boat guests are sceptical. To our great surprise, Björn even knows the German name for some plants such as the horsetail! So for those of you who can spare the time, we absolutely recommend to take this tour.
In Kvikkjokk we enjoy delicious food, a shower and the sauna
We spend the night comfortably in the STF Kvikkjokk Fjällstation which is located directly at Kungsleden and enjoy the great dinner, shower and sauna. Unfortunately, the sauna is located right behind the main building: when you step out of it naked, you are standing directly in front of the room windows.
Dinner is great and if you are willing to pay for this not so cheap pleasure, I can make an absolute recommendation not to miss it! This evening we decide to have a moose patty with cranberries and fried vegetables. Full and satisfied, we fall asleep in the warm beds of the Fjällstation after today’s efforts.
STF Kvikkjokk Fjällstation
In Kvikkjokk you eat à la carte (3-course menu) from 18:00 on and you have to book your meal in advance, at the latest in the afternoon. Between 12:00 and 16:00 burgers and snacks are available at all times. There is always a vegetarian menu to choose from, a vegan alternative can also be prepared, but you should give the kitchen a little lead time if possible.
The mountain station in Kvikkjokk has a small shop where you can refresh your supplies. An overview of the product range and prices can be found here:
The shop at the STF mountain station in Kvikkjokk has at least the products of an STF cabin with “large range” assortment.
Kvikkjokk is served by bus at least once a day in both main and low season. Booking can be done conveniently via the Swedish Railways’ website: sj.se (English/Swedish).
You have to book the sauna (free of charge) in Kvikkjokk, which you can do at the reception. But in return, you will be alone in the sauna, different from what you are used to from the Kungsleden cabins.
At the Fjällstation you can choose between different types of rooms. All rooms have in common that they are hostel standard. This means that there are sometimes bunk beds, they have a sink in the room, but the toilet and shower are shared with the other guests on the corridor.
Kvikkjokk is accessible by road and therefore by car. The town is also connected by a bus line.
An overview of information about the Fjällstation is provided by the STF: swedishtouristassociation.com (English/Swedish)