We are awakened by Alexander’s astonished announcement that in the area of the delta where the Tjäktjajåkka flows into the Kaitumjaure, a cow moose is grazing with her calf. What can I say: we never left the tent so quickly! Even up here on the Kungsleden this sight is not an everyday experience and we do not want to miss it. For a while we watch the majestic animals, then we have breakfast.
In Kaitumjaure our small group divides up
The weather is perfect, the sun is shining and we are only two stages away from our final destination. In our schedule we have planned several buffer days in case something unforeseen happens, like bad weather or just slow progress. Since we haven’t used them yet, Manuel and I decide to take a break today and climb one of the surrounding mountains. Alexander, on the other hand, wants to set off and try to walk the two stages to Vakkotavare, because his sleeping bag is not warm enough for the frosty temperatures.
Therefore, our group separates after breakfast and I have a slightly queasy feeling in my stomach. Actually, we wanted to finish the Kungsleden together, but that will not happen anymore. That makes me sad. But of course I know that freezing and sleeping badly doesn’t help either.
STF Cabin Kaitumjaure
From the hut in Kaitumjaure you can enjoy the wonderful view over the lake of the same name. This is a good place to watch moose!
Payment: Cash or credit card
More information: swedishtouristassociation.com
Manuel and I climb a local mountain at the Kaitumjaure hut today
Manuel and I decide to climb up Sánarcohkka. With 1580 meters it is already quite high. A sign just behind Kaitumjaure shows us the way and promises that it takes us three hours to reach the summit.
The path leads steeply uphill to the summit. At first it is still easy to see the trail, then it becomes narrower. Soon we are walking through the meadows without a path. All around us an impressive panorama opens up. We can now overlook the steep mountainsides and the valley of the Tjäktjajåkka. Also the long stretched Kaitumjaure lies idyllically before us. The snow on the mountain tops makes the mountains look even more beautiful! We are fascinated.
Suddenly Lando has disappeared tracelessly
In the meantime, we don’t pay attention to Lando for a moment too long. He takes the opportunity and runs away uphill. We see a herd of reindeer moving away, then Lando disappears as well. Shouting loudly we run after him. But Lando remains missing. The reindeer have made their way uphill into the scree where Lando has no chance to chase them. Minutes pass by in which we don’t find any trace of Lando. Then suddenly we see him almost at the bottom of the mountain running towards the huts in Kaitumjaure. As loud as we can we call his name. Fortunately he hears us and starts to walk uphill.
About 10 minutes later he is back, but completely out of breath. No wonder, he must decended 300 meters of altitude and had to climb those again. A bath in the next snow field offers some cooling, then we continue uphill with Lando on the leash.
Shortly before reaching the summit, we give up: we can’t climb further through the scree
As we go on, the scree becomes increasingly coarse and we finally jump over huge boulders. Lando is obviously struggling and I find it difficult to balance exactly one leash length in front or behind Lando.
Finally we decide not to go up any further and turn back about 100 meters before reaching the summit. The view on the way back is still great: we can’t get enough of it. I can absolutely recommend this tour to anyone who has a little time in Kaitumjaure.
By the way, the day ends as it began: with watching the moose cow, which is still grazing down in the delta. In the meantime, the other visitors of the hut have also become aware of it!