During the night it became really stormy and we had to go out again to tighten the guy lines of our tent. Thereby we had a great view of the midnight sun. Our tent withstood the storm well, but we didn’t sleep as tight as in some other nights because of the loud wind noise and the flapping of the tent fabric. Today we plan to make our way to the Skoaddejávre cabin first and then see how far we will get.
Getting up close with the reindeer
After breakfast with the best view, the trail leads us straight up an ascent of 200 meters in altitude, as usual in bright sunshine. With the still heavy backpack and in rough terrain, this is quite exhausting. Again we cross several snowfields and at the top the view opens to a sparse plateau. There are some reindeer in the snow that allow us to come quite close before Lando barks in excitement and the reindeer take off.
The Norwegians have chosen a beautiful spot for the Skoaddejávre cabin
We continue walking through a scree desert. After the ascent we are now going slightly downhill and in front of us the view of Skoaddejávri, our first waypoint, opens up. In the background we can already see the end of the plateau, with the steep drop-off edge that the hiker in Cáihnavággi had warned us about. The high mountains in the background form a great panorama once again. Only one hour later we reach the Skoaddejávre cabin at lunch time. The hut is beautifully situated at the already mentioned Skoaddejávri lake. Once again we take advantage of the shade offered by the cabin to escape the worst of the midday heat.
At the cabin we also meet two German tourists completely without heavy backpack. Astonished we talk to them and find out that they have walked here as day tourists from their camper on the road. Another way to get to this beautiful place.
DNT Cabin Skoaddejávre
In terms of location, definitely one of my favorite cabins! The cabin has a wonderful view over the Skoaddejávri. With the boat belonging to the cabin, you can also look out for fish there.
Beds: 12 in two cabins according to DNT homepage
Electricity: no
Payment: afterwards by Paypal or bank transfer
Key: DNT key
More information: ut.no (Norwegian only)
Perseverance is needed this afternoon
After an extended break, we set off from Skoaddejávre two hours later covered with towels, buff and gloves heading towards the Sita hut. The path continues across a plain that just doesn’t want to end. We remember the words of the oncoming hiker we met at Cáihnavággihytta, that at the end of the plain a steep descent to the road awaits us. The longer we walk, the steeper the way down becomes in my mind. My strength is dwindling and in the end I believe that we might not make it down and have to walk it all back.
But today is also the afternoon of the animals! Above us two golden eagles appear repeatedly, which probably look at us as curious as we look at them. If we just had binoculars with us! Fascinated we watch the majestic birds as they glide through the air. All around us we also see movement in the scree: wherever we look there are reindeer. We observe large groups today, which are looking for some cooler air here at the highest altitudes. Several times we suddenly stand in front of a herd out of nothing after walking over a hilltop. A very special day, because you don’t see that many animals in the Fjäll every day.
After a seemingly endless time we reach the edge of the cliff. Below we can already see the road that will lead us to the Sitas hut. Unfortunately, the descent is really steep. The view, on the other hand, is amazing and in the end, of course, we make it down. However, meanwhile we stumble more than we hike and the trail continues to lead us over large boulders, rocks polished smooth by the glacier or small scree fields. At the bottom we are really tired and take a break. Even Lando has no more energy and lies down in the meadow immediately.
Chocolate mousse in the middle of the wilderness
We treat ourselves to an instant chocolate mousse and are surprised by the really delicious taste! This freeze-dried snack is perfect for quick energy in between, because you only need cold water to prepare it. From our rest spot just below the mountain face, a gravel road leads over 14 kilometers to the Sitas hut. We decide to walk along the road for a bit and then set up camp.
Cell phone reception between Skoaddejávre and Sitas
On the road to Sitas, we got sufficient reception for a while to make phone calls and check the weather report. However, the internet reception did not get better than Edge.
Wow, we are moving fast on the road
Surprisingly, we are reasonably fit again after the break and on the road we are making faster progress than ever before during this vacation. That motivates us. Lando can not keep up the pace, however. We therefore decide to relieve him of the packs. I throw them on top of my backpack.
When we have already managed five kilometers of the way after only one hour, we consider going all the way to Sitas. I pass Lando’s bags to Manuel, because I am really tired now, too. At the road we eventually meet the German couple from noon again. At the roadside they have found a parking place for their small camper. Too bad that the road is blocked with a barrier at this point towards Sitas, otherwise they would have offered to drive us to the cabin.
The outlook for a bed mobilizes our last energies
Lando can only be motivated to continue by constant cheering. My feet also really hurt and I try to step up with the outsides. Around 10 p.m. we reach our destination completely exhausted after 26 kilometers and about 14 hours of hiking.
We are surprised to find that the three Germans we last met at Gautelissee must have made it here before us today. But we are much too tired to talk to them today. As a reward for our efforts, a nice little cabin is waiting for us, where we soon fall into a deep sleep.
DNT Cabin Sitas
Sitashytta is located directly on the Sitasjaure. There is a boat with which you can go out on the lake. But be careful, the weather here changes quickly and in windy conditions there is a risk of drifting off. Since the Sitas cabin is located on a road, cyclists and cars are passing by from time to time.
Beds: 8 in three cabins according to DNT homepage
Electricity: yes, 12V, in the big cabin there is a USB socket
Payment: afterwards by Paypal or bank transfer
Key: DNT key
More information: ut.no (Norwegian only)
Čoarddajávri
Description
About 1 km behind the gravel road at the Gautelis reservoir we find good campsites. We have a great view over two lakes into the endless vastness of the magnificent landscape here in the far north. Nearby we find a small stream with wonderfully fresh and cold water.
Day 7: Čoarddajávri - Sitashytta
Profile
Description
The seventh day: From the campsite at Čoarddajávri to Sitashytta.
We find this stage long and exhausting. If you want, you can split it easily. After just 6 km we reach Skoaddejávrihytta, which is very inviting. From here the path leads us about 5,5 km over a plateau. There are plenty of options for setting up a tent here as well. More chances to divide the stage can be found after the steep descent down to the gravel road. However, if you arrive at the barrier on the south shore of Tjårdavatnet, you have to make a final decision: either walk the last 6 km to Sitashytta, or find a campsite nearby.
Sitashytta
Description
Sitashytta is located at the northwestern end of Sitasjávri and right next to a gravel road. However, this is closed to traffic and therefore not traveled. As usual, the cabin consists of several buildings: a small toilet house and a material shed, as well as a large main cabin and a smaller cabin that stands a bit apart. The latter has only two beds. Just right for us!