We are up early and have already packed everything at 8 o’clock. This is a record for us, since we are actually always up late, even on vacation. In bright sunshine, we now head up the mountain. Our first waypoint is the STF hut Abiskojaure.
The trail soon gets smaller and is shortly after no longer visible, so we have to find our own way. With our cell phones’ GPS and the downloaded offline maps, we navigate along the national park border. The terrain is not difficult, but with our heavy backpacks we make only slow progress. However, the opening view back compensates for all efforts.
While Lando is annoyed by the horse flies, we steadily continue uphill. At the top we have one of the most fantastic views over the mountains that I know up here in Lapland. We can look all the way back to Abisko, our starting point the day before. Besides, there is a decent wind blowing here, which keeps mosquitoes and horse flies away well. We therefore enjoy this view during our first break of the day.
We have a panoramic view over the first stage of Kungsleden
For a while, the trail leads us along the ridge at about the same altitude. We cross some snowfields, where Lando apparently has a lot of fun. Despite his backpacks, he throws himself into the cool white and rolls around excessively.
Also, the view gets better behind each hill. Finally, we see the entire first stage of Kungsleden on the opposite side of Ábeskojávrri. The climb at the beginning of the second stage of the Kungsleden looks ridiculously small from up here, but we know from our own experience that it is quite strenuous.
The trail to the cabin in Abiskojaure drags on forever
After reaching the summit, the descent is slow at first, then steeper and steeper. We are tired and look forward to a lunch break in Abiskojaure. The way to the cabin drags on endlessly and we cannot see the cabin until we are almost there. Then suddenly it appears out of nowhere. After five hours of hiking we have covered only 8.5 kilometers and our hips, shoulders and feet are happy about the break. We ask the hut keeper about the weather and learn that it is not supposed to rain for the next few days.
While we are cooking lunch, we see a thunderstorm coming up in the distance. Well, I guess that’s about it for the weather report! A little later, it is storming and raining heavily around us as. We extend our break to almost three hours until it is finally getting better again. Then we set off towards Unna Allakas. Weather reports here in the mountains are at best rough estimations, we know that by now. Lucky that we managed to avoid the rain.
STF Abiskojaure mountain cabin
The Abiskojaure cabin is located on both the Kungsleden and the Nordkalottleden. A special highlight is that it is barrier-free, so that people with physical disabilities can also experience the Fjäll here. By boat transfer from Abisko you will also have barrier-free access to the hut. A great idea, as I think!
Payment: Cash or credit card
More information: swedishtouristassociation.com
We are going to walk a bit further towards Unna Allakas
The cabin Unna Allakas is 23 kilometers away and we want to walk a little bit of that today. We set off from Abiskojaure and immediately take a wrong turn. But the attentive hut keeper follows us and shows us the right way. The path is so overgrown here at the hut that we have not seen it at all.
At the beginning the trail is easy to walk. Up to Unna Allakas we now pass through a valley with almost no altitude difference. However, after a while it becomes a little more rocky. Or maybe it’s just our tired bodies that find the path so strenuous. In any case, the last kilometers drag on. In addition, there is a bunch of mosquitoes that makes it exhausting to stop even for a quick photo.
After we have completed the first five kilometers to Unna Allakas, we pitch our tent just behind the second bridge at the Hoiganjohka. The river is really impressive and roars directly under our campsite, but we seek shelter in the mosquito-proof tent with our dinner. Even Lando seems to be totally stressed by the insects and is glad when I open the tent door for him.
Day 2: Kårsajåkka - Hoiganjohka
Day starts with a long and exhausting climb, but it gives us a great view over the valley where we walked the Kungsleden two years ago. After a long ridge we descend to the Abiskojaure hut and walk a bit further towards the Unna Allakas Fjällstuga.