The next morning we have breakfast with best weather and a beautiful view over the lake Haugajaure. An old boat lies forgotten right next to the trail and contributes to the picturesque scenery on the Kungsleden. As we sit there, I realise that the vastness of Lapland decelerates me in a very short time and brings me back to the moment. That is why I love these holidays so much!
Reindeer accompany us along the Kungsleden
At about 10:30 a.m. we set off with the lake Riebnes as our first destination. After a few meters we cross a creek where we refill our water supplies. It is a huge luxury that you can drink the water here on the Kungsleden just anywhere without hesitation! Not much later we spot the first reindeer. They are not really shy and dare to come quite close to us despite Lando. But at some point one of the animals gets scared, whereupon the whole herd suddenly flees in complete panic.
At first we walk in the most beautiful sunshine towards the northeast, always parallel to the bank of the lake Savdalluokta, which we can see from time to time between the trees. The trail leads us through light woodland quite straight to the ascent through the saddle between Riebnesgájsse (1137 m) and Vállåjvve (884 m). Here it gets a bit strenuous for the first time. Even though the ascent is only 230 meters of altitude difference, the weight of the backpacks, which are still quite heavy at the beginning, becomes very noticeable.
At the top, the saddle turns out to be a small and treeless plateau. We are rewarded with a great view over the lake Riebnes and on the other side of the lake we can already see our destination for the day: the small village Vuonatjviken where two Sami families live.
But first we have to get back down again. The lake Riebnes is at about 510 m and we almost have to go back to our starting point before the climb. This descent is similarly long as the ascent and ends directly at the lakeside. Here we find a few huts. They are however abandoned and locked.
Arriving at the lakeside we wait a long time for the boat
Boat crossing at lake Riebnes
We recommend to book the boat over the lake Riebnes in advance. In Jäckvik at the entrance to the Kungsleden there is a sign with the telephone number. It is worth calling there before starting the Kungsleden.
Cost of crossing (2018): 350 SEK, cash or card
Contact: Jan Johansson +46 730 358 673, Eva Johansson +46 706 968 045
To get from the lakeside of the Riebnes to Vuonatjviken, where the Kungsleden continues, you have to book a boat transfer, which is run by a Sami family in Vuonatjviken. Somewhere it was said that you should book the boat in advance, but you also have mobile phone reception at the beach on lake Riebnes and you can call the family from there, too. We have decided to call directly from the shore. But on the phone we get to know that there should be a group behind us that has pre-ordered the boat. Therefore the boat driver will pick us up at 6 pm. Until then we still have four hours of forced break, which we spend with a walk through the small settlement, picking blueberries and a little nap in the warming sun.
Let’s go to Vuonatjviken
We wake up when the sun is lower and we get cold, so completely without movement. There is still no trace of the announced group. Finally we breathe a sigh of relief when we notice the boat in some distance and are pleased to discover that it has a closed and a heated cabin. Meanwhile we have become really cold and we both have a thick jacket on. The group doesn’t show up that day, so we start the crossing alone. It is already after 7 pm when we finally reach Vuonatjviken and as we are still completely chilled to the narrow, we can’t resist the temptation to rent a small cabin and enjoy a real hot shower this evening!
Accommodation and shopping in Vuonatjviken
The Sami family (Jan and Eva Johansson), who live in Vuonatjviken, runs a small shop and offers accommodation in addition to the boat transfer. Cashless payment, also for the boat trip, is possible.
Cost overnight stay (2018): 400 SEK