We sleep long the next day. The two Norwegians, who arrived in the evening from Røysvatn and the Dane Kathrin, who is heading the same way as us, seem to be as tired as we are, since it’ s quiet for a long time at the Pauro hut.
In the morning it remains quiet for a long time in the Pauro hut – everyone is tired
Around 12 o’clock we all set off. The two Norwegians walk towards Sitas, Kathrin and we make our way to Røysvatn. After a little less than an hour we reach the rowing spot across Lake Pauro. Kathrin, who was a bit faster than us, is waiting for us here, so she doesn’t have to row alone. We have heard a lot about the short rowing passage at Pauro in advance, especially that it is not supposed to be that easy. However, the lake lies peacefully in front of us and I estimate that it is fifty meters to the other side. What should be so difficult about it?
At this passage there are only two boats, so you have to row three times in any case. Since the boats are only suitable for two people, at first Manuel rows with Kathrin and our backpacks to the other side. Next, Lando swims through the lake. There is hardly any current at this passage and Lando masters the swim without any problems. When he reaches the other side, Manuel ties him to one of the eyelets for mooring the boat.
Rowing passage Pauro – today bridge
Since there are only two boats on this rowing passage, you have to row three times in any case to make sure that there is a boat on each bank again at the end. The oars of the boats were of different lengths, which made rowing very difficult. In addition, a strong wind whistled through the narrow part of the lake. Although the rowing passage was really short, it was a tough one. By the way, in the hut book it is noted that if you are at least 1.80 meters tall, you can also wade through the water with your backpack on your head. Good thing we didn’t have to try that!
Shortly after our hike, according to our information, the DNT replaced the rowing point with a bridge. This will now save a lot of time. We hope that the bridge will hold, because it is not the first attempt to build a bridge there.
Suddenly Manuel drifts far out on Lake Pauro with the boats
But on the way back it suddenly gets tricky: when Manuel wants to row back to me with the second boat in tow, he gets drifted far out on the lake. At first I don’t understand what the problem is. I feel nervous. Why can’t he get back on course?
It eventually turns out that the oars are of different lengths. In addition, the holder for the oars on the boat is closed on one side and open on the other. On the open side, the oar can slip out easily. I hear Manuel swearing loudly on the lake, but then he is able to reach out and grab a second oar of the same length from the other boat and gets back on course.
When he arrives at my side, we attach the oar to the boat with a piece of our cord. This allows us to get across the short section of water quite quickly.
There is no breeze in the midday sun
After the boat and the oars are securely moored on land again, we walk further across the headland that divides Lake Pauro at this point. The air seems to be standing here, it feels really warm and I am glad when the bridge at the end of the headland is in sight. Lando is able to swim through the river a bit upstream and we pass the bridge in record speed. At this point we say goodbye to Kathrin, who takes a break here. Although she follows the same route as we do until Røysvatn, we don’t see her again. On Instagram, however, we have continued to follow her journey through Norway with excitement.
Attention: poor trail marking
Then the trail climbs slightly and goes almost semicircular around a mountain. When we cross the border into Sweden, there are no more markings and the trail gets lost. Until shortly before Røysvatn we are now on the Swedish side.
We navigate with our GPS to walk roughly at the right trail. However, the terrain is also gentle and not so difficult to hike. In other words, you could also walk a little higher or lower than the suggested path without any problems. With only a paper map, though, navigating through this section of trail is probably more difficult. In this area Bastian, the German we met at the Baugebua, got pretty lost.
Best view back all the way to Sitas
The view is once again breathtaking. At the end of Lake Pauro, a waterfall plunges in several tiers down into Kåbtåjaure. Between the mountains we can guess where we have walked over the past days. We can look back to the mountains near Sitas. At the foot of the mountain massif we now follow the lake for a long time.
Arriving at its end, we cross a reindeer fence several times. Unfortunately there is no gate installed, so we have to lift the fence and climb under it. We do not understand why a reindeer fence has to be drawn across the middle of a marked hiking trail and no gate is provided.
Today we have to wade a river again
A short time later we reach the wading place marked on the map. It has water up to the knees at the deepest point, just as the Norwegians described it to us at Pauro. Now we have wet feet again, but otherwise the river crossing causes us no problems. We walk a few more kilometers to the next lake. Again the reindeer fence blocks our way several times. We decide to stay west, outside the fence. Unfortunately, the landscape here is swampy and getting on is a bit exhausting.
Halfway to Røysvatn we pitch our tent with a picturesque view, but because of the many mosquitoes we move right inside. Even Lando is allowed to spend the night in the inner tent, as he is annoyed by the mosquitoes in the vestibule.
Wear and tear number 2: pants
When packing all the stuff into the tent, there is a short tearing noise. Not again! I don’t like that kind of noise at all…The seam of my pants has come undone all the way up the butt from the crotch to the waistband. Six years of sitting on rocks during breaks from hiking must have completely worn away the seam. After the first shock I have to laugh: am I now supposed to walk through the mountains for another five days with a huge hole at my butt? Hopefully not too many mosquitoes will fly in! Luckily Manuel has packed a small tube of superglue. Did I sneered at this piece of equipment in the run-up, I am now very happy that we can patch up my pants temporarily, by simply gluing the torn seam together.
Paurohytta is located at the northernmost tip of Bovrojávri. There is a large main cabin and another small cabin. The view over the lake is fantastic at any time of the day. Due to the space available and the magnificent scenery, Paurohytta is also excellent for a rest day in our eyes.
Day 10: Paurohytta - Skuogejàvrre
Shortly after the Paurohytta we have to cross the Bovrojávri with a rowing boat. Even though the stretch is short, the current that connects the upper and lower lake here is treacherous and there is a strong wind blowing. As far as we know, a bridge has been built at this point in the meantime. Part of the trail to Røysvatn lies on the Swedish side. We notice that there are no more trail markings here and the beaten path quickly gets lost. Soon we find ourselves figuring out our own way. A GPS device or smartphone is a good help, we find.
At the northern end of Skuogejávvre, the terrain is flat and there are also many campsites a short distance off the trail. However, we are quickly attacked by a legion of mosquitoes, so we quickly flee into the tent.